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How to Select the Right Shear

Selecting shears is one of the most important decisions a groomer has to make. Which shear you select has a major impact on the speed and quality of your work, on the health of your hands, and on your wallet! Here are a few facts to help you choose the styles and features that best suit your needs.

There are three types of shears: straight, curved, and thinning. Groomers most often use straight shears. They come in lengths from 4 1/2" to 12", with 8 1/2" being the most common, all-around shears. Most of your scissoring will be done with these on Bichons, Poodles, puppy cuts on Lhasas, etc. Smaller shears of 6 1/2" to 7 1/2" are very good for use on small dogs, or to trim small areas-inside a toy poodle's hind legs, for instance. Very small shears such as the 4 1/2" are useful for close work around the eyes, or for edging just the tips of prick ears. The 9" to 12" shears are great for a puppy cut on an Old English Sheepdog, or a Standard Poodle.

There are two styles of straight shear in the 8" to 10" lengths. The standard shears have a fairly narrow blade that is suitable for most light or fine coats found on breeds such as Bichons, Lhasas, and Poodles. The second style, called an 88 pattern or Filipino style have a wider blade that is most suitable for heavy or coarse coats such as Old English Sheepdogs, Standard Poodles, Portuguese Water Dogs, and Cocker Spaniels in a field trim. Filipino or 88 shears are also useful for groomers who do a lot of pre-bath scissoring as their wider blades seem to hold an edge longer when used often on dirty coats.

Curved shears also come in a variety of lengths from 4" to 12". You may also choose between having a ball tip or not. Ball tips are considered safer, especially around the eyes and feet. Although a good groomer can certainly scissor any shape with a straight shear, including a curve or circle, most find it easier with curved shears. A toy poodle topknot and tail, or setting the angulation of a Bichon's hock are much easier with a 6" or 7" curved shear, while the barrel of a Standard Poodle will go more quickly with a 10" or 12" curved.

Thinning shears have a cutting edge on one blade and teeth on the other. As the blades meet, hair on top of the teeth is cut while some slips between the teeth and is not cut at all. The more teeth, the more hair is cut each stroke. This slight irregularity produces a much more natural look than a straight scissor cut, making them ideal for most rough terrier-type coats. Thinning shears with 40 or more teeth are usually used for thinning off hair (with the grain) or for any blending work. Thinning shears with less teeth tend to be used more for bulk thinning on very thick coats, going underneath the surface and against the grain. Some thinning shears have teeth on both sides. These are used primarily for bulk thinning, although they are used for blending as well. They tend to be a very safe shear, as they are less likely to nick or pinch the skin.

Shears also are available in bent shank and short shank styles. Bent shank shears have shanks that are slightly offset from the blades. This allows you to scissor over an area without having your hand touch the scissored coat. An example is the 8 1/2" Heritage Bent Shank Shears.

Short shank shears have shanks that are shorter than the blades. Examples are Geib's "J" series, and Saber and Stiletto shears. The short shanks allow you to open your shear very wide with very little hand fatigue, thus scissoring more quickly and smoothly than a standard shear. Short shank styles are ideal for groomers with carpel tunnel syndrome.

There are other factors to consider when selecting a shear along with shear type and length. Various features will affect the weight, feel and performance of the grooming shears. The type of material used to manufacture the shears affects its durability and maintenance requirements. Carbon steel is durable and holds an edge, but must be kept oiled to prevent rust. Stainless steel is a high-quality steel combined with chromium to resist rust. Cobalt steel is a type of hardened stainless steel designed to resist chips and nicks. The steel used in shears is also subjected to sub-zero temperatures during the manufacturing process in order to change the composition of the metal making it harder. Thus, shears that are ice tempered, frozen tempered or cold forged will hold an edge longer. Most shears today are cold forged or ice-tempered.

There are also several types of blade edges from which to choose. Honed and razor edges are precisely sharpened to reduce scissor marks on the coat. Corrugated or Serrated edges have tiny grooves to grip the hair as they cut for non-slip scissoring. Hollow ground edges are ground down inside to reduce the weight and have a finer edge for smoother scissoring with less hand fatigue.

Why buy one of the top of the line shears? Are they really worth the money? Most of the higher end shears are made out of much better quality metal, as well as being handcrafted, balanced, and sharper. This means that you will experience less hand fatigue as the shears open and close much more readily, and you will get a nicer finish as the blades can be honed to a razor sharpness due to the quality of the metal. You will also need to have them sharpened less often as they will hold an edge longer. Most people find that high quality shears are a very worthwhile investment.

Probably the most important factor in purchasing shears is your opinion. The large variety of shears available on the market is the result of wide range of personal preferences existing among grooming professionals. Decide what your price range is, look for a shear within it that is suitable for the type of scissoring that you do most, and get the one that cuts well for you and feels good in your hand. The "best" shear is the one you like that helps you groom comfortably and more efficiently.